I never hold my breath during couture season as I used to when I was a kid. I think that the notion of haute couture might disappear unless it re-establishes a wider sphere of influence. But they are still important moments and Riccardo Tisci’s Fall 2009 collection was one of them. The dialogue veered energetically between chic, tailored and precise European clothes, haunting science fiction apparitions and the stars of the show: fascinating and beautiful Middle Eastern looks. Although bewilderingly varied, this show definitely operated its magic on me, contributing forcefully and memorably to couture 2009 (and it could do with some of Tisci's modern-day touch, the rest of the shows were achingly dull). The clothes were visually intriguing, impeccably executed and exceptional. Blending consistently different stylistic aspects including heavy draping, hoods, veils, gold embroidery, high-necked evening gowns, coats, harem pants, silk crepe, cashmere, nude chiffon and velvet fabrics, all climaxing with the cutting-edge and theatrically powerful jewellery consisting of burqas, gold face masks, spikes, studs, chains and other armor elements. This really was traditional couture combined with new and somewhat provocative arrangements. Not only was the thematic exploration of culture stunning and thought provoking, the show also provided skillfully made and refreshing clothes.
Christian Lacroix, whose couture house went bankrupt, showed up at the Givenchy show. I feel sad thinking that this may have been his last collection. Although his brightly coloured exuberant clothes, always infused with a hint of South Eastern France, are not exactly my kind of thing I’m sure that his passion will be missed in the world of couture.

All photos courtesy of Style and Jack & Jil



Anonymous said...

I love haute couture because it's so utterly unwearable in everyday life. It's escapism. It's dressing up in your mom's clothes when you're four-years-old. It stimulates the mind and imagination. We need it now more than ever.

The Six Six Sick Girls said...

I was totally freaking out about the jewelry as soon as a saw this collection.


Noelle + Kendall said...

Oh how I loved this collection! It was truly spectacular, I couldn't believe my eyes


Pine says fire said...

Breathtaking collection. the masks are eating my heart.

Eric Saeter said...


lulu said...

Amazing. Your writing/commentary is also quite lovely J.

Anonymous said...

Mind-blowing. The accessories are on a whole different level - the shapes, the construction, the materials that were used. R.T. could retire today with this! xoxo

P.S. I like your new photo, lovely!

leeselooks said...

beautifully written.
you captured the true magical essence.

imagine seeing it in person?
i think i would of gasped...

have missed you!

enjoy your weekend.


E.K. said...

If it's going to be the last collection than go out with a bang right?

The Velvet Scientist said...

Oh yes, Givenchy was so lovely. Such an accomplishment, I can't even express how beautiful it is to me.


dandy gum said...

yes it's by Terry Richardson.. the pages of ARENA mag was full of hamnett ads back then.

Thank you so much for 'eulogies' :) i value your words.

regarding Givenchy, i can imagine that last piece being worn by those eastern families (almost) residing at Plaza Athénée :)

dandy gum said...

i have a page that hangs out on its own there, yes :).. i write and erase .

Maurenice @ Heights of Fashion said...

I love love this collection!

WOW the detail is just sooo amazing! Thanks for sharing, I can't get enough of it.


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