I haven’t written anything here for a little while because the words have refused to appear. Not for lack of inspiration or enthusiasm but because it feels misguided thinking about fashion or photography while the death toll in Japan is already well into the thousands. It’s heartbreaking. Many of my favourite brands are Japanese (45rpm, Wacko Maria, Journal Standard Luxe) and my Twitter feed has been exploding with continuous information from the Tokyo based creatives I follow. While the rest of the world has succumbed to hysteria and morbid anticipation, their calm, sense of perspective and self-preservation fills me with admiration.Tonight, despite the emotional awareness of recent world events, I thought I should go back to writing about what I love even if the task may seem daunting right now. Maybe the light-hearted theatre of clothes can continue to be a source of enjoyment and provide entertainment.
I don’t, as a rule, talk much about fashion weeks. Those shows are immediately dissected by thousands of blogs or journalists and are steaming-hot for about ten minutes. I prefer to engage fully in the experience once it’s over and everyone’s already thinking about the next season. It is a somewhat difficult exercise when you are assailed everywhere by live information. However, I find that you can offer a more honest assessment if you can look at the shows with a fresh mind at a later date.
Christophe Lemaire’s first collection at Hermès was unveiled during Paris fashion week and it’s impossible for me not to mention it. It is probably one of the greatest transformations of the season. What has actually happened is that Lemaire has taken the familiar heritage trademark of Hermès and confidently injected cultish eighties/sportswear elements to create exciting and phenomenally beautiful clothes. I fell in love. I couldn’t conceal my delight when I saw the colours, sophisticated soft leathers, loose cashmere, relaxed tunics, coats and jackets reminiscent of tribal costumes, the ecclesiastical hoods, the skinny black leather trousers, the boots and accessories. And all of it combined with the fastidious luxury and elegance of the house. I have to admit that I was thrilled by the result and hope that Christophe Lemaire will continue to triumph at Hermès for many years to come!
All pictures courtesy of Hermès, collage by July Stars