NEW GENERATION

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A/W 2009
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S/S 2009

The other night a friend of mine was lamenting the lack of raw new talent in London, complaining loudly about the shows she had attended (Charles Anastase, PPQ, Paul Smith, Luella etc). She expressed her irritation at the continuous regurgitations of old ideas and added that she would be happy to never attend fashion week again. Her verbal exaggerations were hilarious and a provocative performance in itself. In fact, while she carried out her relentless assault on London fashion designers I was thinking about Mark Fast and what is undoubtedly a superb collection. A 27 year old Canadian knitwear designer, Mark knits everything by hand on a domestic knitting machine bought in Hackney five years ago. His pieces are exceptionally beautiful and miles away from current trends. You can smell the craft and dedication in his work, in each powerful and magical stitch. I am fascinated by the artistic vibrancy I have seen in his collection so far. His dresses are like complex body con sculptures, slightly reminiscent of the stretchy and clingy designs of Alaïa. The black crocheted mini dresses, the bright orange piece fringed on one arm only, the mini skirt with incorporated braces, these are real classics. Individual and modern constructions adorning the body like primitive African war paint or jewellery. So while my friend may feel cheated by what she has seen during London fashion week, I believe that Mark Fast provided a new clothing language. His presentation was remarkable and a real achievement.

Has anyone watched Gran Torino? I loved it and cried like a baby. Clint Eastwood’s performance as a hardcore racist is moving and absorbing (and his list of profanities so funny… ever heard of a “puss cake”?)

All pictures: WWD, Dazed Digital, Mark Fast

16 comments:

E.K. said...

I like that Clint Eastwood says he'll never do another Dirty Harry movie...isn't that Gran Torino? ;)

deedoubleyou said...

wow these are amazing. thanks for the post (also awesome that hes canadian :) so well written too.
i've been meaning to watch that movie

jules said...

those clothes are so amazning

Désinvolte Jane said...

Hi =)
I admire your good taste but sorry i'm french and like you can read it, I don't master the English fine !^^
the black slim dress are so sensuel and rock'n'roll, i love.
;)

Moodie said...

I saw those on sytle.com earlier today and felt in love with the crochet alaia dresses ! I never heard of him before, thanks for this introduction.
And THANKS SO MUCH for your comment! Actually I'm very french, trying hard to be able to write in english as beautifully as you some day.
xxxx

salegamine said...

PUSS CAKE! C'est pas mon nouveau mot préféré ça? Tout à fait!

Little Nutbrown Hare said...

I learned one that could compliment puss cake from a Japanese friend who learned it from an Englishman: shit sandwich.

Wends said...

wow brilliant blog!
i got my navajo bag from thailand - chatchuk markets, it's seriously the hugest thing i've had to tackle, they even have a post office there, no joke!

x

panache-halloweentown.blogspot.com/

i.d. said...

I'm seriously impressed by Mark Fast too! The craftsmanship is amazing.

And yes, Gran Torino was a great movie! I love Clint Eastwood. :)

i.d. said...

I'm seriously impressed by Mark Fast too! The craftsmanship is amazing.

And yes, Gran Torino was a great movie! I love Clint Eastwood. :)

Anonymous said...

I love your writing, can I marry you?

SYNAESTHESIS said...

Hi there!

I really adore your blog! My husband and I are based in Paris and we've just started a blog of our own - We'd be delighted if you'd check it out!

http://feupale.blogspot.com/

All the best!!!

miss a. said...

There was a piece about him in a magazine I read recently (can't remember where it's from, though... which is either a sign of early onset alzheimer's or just too much drinking), and it's amazing how dedicated he is to his craft. There really aren't that many designers these days who can actually sew, surprisingly enough. (And indicated by the lack of courtiers.) I feel like there are so many people now who are just really good at styling (i.e. Alexander Wang) and are able to launch a career out of that alone. Tragic. The death of fashion, as we see it.

Anonymous said...

saw this on Foxyman's blog a day or two before you posted this. Love you said you discovered it though. What a coincidence.

sa said...

I love it ! Very creative ! That's actually really cool Thanks.

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